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Cortona, Arezzo and the spiritual mountains

Cortona is a delightful small city, strategically placed, between Tuscany and Umbria, seated on a hill 600m above sea level, dominating the entire Val di Chiana valley as far away as Montepulciano. The Medieval architecture of Cortona has remained perfectly intact. But even before this the city was one of the 12 confederate Etruscan cities ( along with Arezzo, Perugia, Fiesole, Volterra, Chiusi and Tarquinia) until 310 BC when they were defeated and placed under the patronage of Rome. You can visit the archeological sites and the many Etruscan tombs around the city or the ruins of the imposing defensive walls built by the Etruscans. The city has become famous more recently thanks to the book ‘Under the Tuscan Sun’ written by American writer Frances Mayes, and made into a film, which is set in this Tuscan town. Cortona is an excellent base for visiting Umbria and the south of Tuscany, including Montelpulciano or Pienza


09 - Cortona, Arezzo and the spiritual mountains

Who knows what went through Dante Alighieri’s head when, at the beginning of the year 1300, exiled from Florence after the party of the Guelfi Neri had gained the upper hand over that of the Guelfi Bianchi, to which the sublime poet belonged, saw once again, from his vantage point in the castle of Romena, where he had taken refuge with the Conti Guidi, lords of the Casentino, the Piana of Campaldino and the silhouette of the castle of Poppi emerging from the autumn mists. A few years earlier, in 1289, he had fought there in the ranks of the victorious Florentine army, that bloody battle against the inhabitants of Arezzo that signalled the latters’ final submission to Florence.

Perhaps his glance will have run upwards, towards the mountains, from which the clear waters of the young Arno, mentioned by him in the Divine Commedia, race downwards, across the Casentino, and where about a century earlier, Francesco d’Assisi, who had refused the hatred and the violence of the arms, preferring love and brotherhood amongst men, had taken refuge in meditation and prayer. On a crag of bare rock that overlooks the whole valley he had founded his first monastery, La Verna, today site of an important monastic community and object of pilgrimage from all over the world. It was on this spot that the Saint, in 1224, first manifested the stigmata.

Francesco was not the only one to find in the tranquillity and solitude of the woods of the Casenti ...

... no the ideal place to seek God. Some years earlier another hermit, San Romualdo, settled in Camaldoli, founding the order of the Camaldolesi Monks and an important monastery. Here several centuries later Lorenzo de’ Medici and his court of intellectuals, poets and artists would pass the summer months in conversation with the monks about theology and philosophy. It is to the monks’ unceasing and hard work of reforestation and their love for nature that we owe this imposing forest, at one time the main source of firewood for, first, the Florentine Republic and, then, the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Today this forest is a national park, where the wolf of the Appennines has managed to survive, and in fact today is starting once again to gradually increase in number.

Extraordinarily rich in wildlife, the park includes the natural reserve of Sasso Fratino, where all human activity is absolutely forbidden, a wooded area whose vegetation has remained virtually unchanged since the last ice age of Wurmiana 12,000 years ago. Not to be missed is the spectacle that the change in colour of the leaves offers in springtime and above all in autumn, when the chestnuts and beechtrees are completely covered in gold.

But the province of Arezzo, which the Casentino is part of, has not only been home to mystics and woodsmen. It was also the birthplace of great artists of the Renaissance such as Michelangelo and Vasari, both of whom, however, soon moved to Florence. One artist who instead remained profoundly connected with his land and who left a marvellous trace of his art here is Piero della Francesca, originally from San Sepolcro, almost on the border with Umbria. It is in his native city that two of his masterpieces can be found, “La Resurrezione" and “La Madonna della Misericordia”, while another of his marvellous frescos showing a pregnant Madonna, “La Madonna del Parto”, is kept at Monterchi. The real masterpiece of Piero, “La Leggenda della vera Croce”, beyond a doubt among the most important cycles of frescos of Italian painting can be found in Arezzo, in the Church of San Francesco. If only for this Arezzo is worth a visit. If you go on the first weekend of the month you will find the whole city transformed into a fascinating and colourful antiques market. And, since you’re already there, do not forget to visit Cortona, not far away, one of the oldest Italian cities, founded by the Etruscans, with its imposing boundary walls still standing. Cortona, nowadays even more famous after the book “Under the Tuscan sun”, has in fact maintained almost intact its medieval architecture. In the diocesan museum you can also see masterpieces of religious inspiration by notable artists of the Renaissance such as Beato Angelico, Ambrogio Lorenzetti and Luca Signorelli.



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